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Daily Archives: May 15, 2014

Why and how Leather Corals Shed

Some Leather or Family Alcyoniidae corals periodically slough-off a thin top layer of tissue. This shedding process is apparently not a regenerative action, but one that serves to rid the coral’s surface of accumulated waste, debris and algae. Once a coral has shed what could be described as a layer of “old skin”, it’s not unusual for it to appear larger and more magnificent than before.

 

Why and How Leather Corals Shed

Leather Coral before shedding.

Sarcophyton, Lobophytum and Sinularia species leather corals are those that regularly go through this shedding process, as shown in this sequence of Toadstool Mushroom Leather Coral pictures.
By using the Tridacna crocea Clam in this first picture as a gauge, you can get a general idea of the width and height of the coral before it shed.

The First Phase of Shedding

Leather Coral Shedding - First Phase.

This is the Toadstool Mushroom Leather Coral several days after performing a simple cleaning procedure of the substrate in a tank. It was determined that due to the amount of fine sediment that was suspended in the water from stirring up the sand, and periodically blowing water over the coral with a powerhead to remove any debris that settled on top of it, this caused the coral to respond and go into the shedding mode.
In the first phase of shedding, the coral closes up and shrinks, and the surface takes on a waxy appearance. The coral remained in this state for several days before it actually starts to shed.

The Second Phase of Shedding

In the second phase of shedding, here you can clearly see a thin, slimy-like membrane peeling away from the surface of the Toadstool Mushroom Leather Coral. In the area where sloughing already occurred, the coral’s polyps have started to come out again.

The Second Phase of Shedding Continues

Leather Coral shedding - Second Phase.

 

In this picture the Leather Coral continued to shed its outer layer, you can see how the area of shedding widened by looking at where more polyps had emerged.
The Coral continued sloughing until it had completely rid its top surface of “old skin”.

What to look for when buying a Marine Tank

When starting in the marine hobby the first decision to be made is the tank size, the saying here is that bigger is not always better does not hold true, the bigger you can afford the better, beware of so called hidden costs ie. bigger means more lighting, live rock, larger skimmer etc.

Ideally nothing smaller than a 200L system, approximately 1 m 20cm by 45 cm by 45 cm. Once one has decided on the size of tank you must then decide on whether the tank is going to be fish only, or a reef tank, meaning corals anemones and fish. It is always advisable to start with a fish only tank until you are confidant with your water management skills. One must then look at the various options on lighting and what type of equipment you are going to need? The other important thing one must look at is whether to use live rock or ceramic rock. This decision plays a very important role in the success of a reef tank. As live rock is your main biological filter.

Other important decisions to be made are fish options in both fish only and reef aquaria, as there are certain fish that are not compatible with each other or in a reef tank due to incompatibility of invertebrates (corals, shrimps). This is when you need the help of a reliable pet store. What is most important here is finding a pet store that you trust, the easiest way to tell if a pet store is offering good advice is to inspect their display tanks if the tanks are healthy and thriving then the advice will be good and solid, based on systems that work. I recommend strongly sticking to one pet store until you have an idea of what you are doing.

The best investment in this hobby is knowledge, gained through reading books by recognized authors and starting off with a goal in mind. There are many different mythologies for maintaining a successful marine aquarium and may be very confusing at times.

Tank size.

As mentioned above 200 L is an ideal minimum size to start with. (But always go as big as you can with regards to space and budget)

Equipment:

The sump and other options.

One must decide whether you are going to have a tank with a sump (the sump is a tank underneath the main tank that holds the equipment), or whether you going to have a filter that will just clip onto the side of the tank (this option is only ideal for small tanks). This is a very important decision. Option one is almost a must in a reef tank as waste in sea water collects at the top of the water column and forms a film on the surface of the water which is clearly visible and can hinder oxygen diffusing into the water. When you have a sump in place the surface of the water is continually skimmed and the scum is fed to the filtration where it belongs. Another advantage of a sump is a lager volume of water which again adds more stability to a marine system.

Power heads.

Power heads are what we use to circulate the water in the tank. This plays an important role when you consider we are trying to simulate the movement of the sea. For a reef tank I recommend turning the volume of the tank over a minimum of 10 times an hour depending on what corals you are going to be keeping, and a fish only system anything from 4 times an hour.

Return pump.

This is the pump that returns the water from the sump back to the tank. The volume of this water turned over through the sump should be between 2 and 6 times an hour depending on whether it is fish only or a reef system. Generally we find a reef system requiring less turnover through the sump, (between 2 and 4 times) fish only, requiring more (between 4 and 6 times).

Protein skimmer.

This is the most important piece of equipment in the tank. Look at it as the heart of the system as it is your primary source of waste removal. What a protein skimmer does is remove all the excess waste out of the water, which is caused by fish waste and decaying matter. As you can imagine with out a protein skimmer all the excess nutrient builds up in the tank causing problems with your water quality, and in turn stressing the inhabitants resulting in sick fish or dying coral. Try not to buy the cheapest model you can lay your hands on! If you speak to any experienced, successful aquarist they will agree that this is one piece of equipment where you can’t cut corners.

How does a protein skimmer work?

In simple terms, it is the mixing of air and water, if you have ever been to the beach on a windy day and seen the brown foam that collects on top of the water, this is exactly what a skimmer does, and then allows easy removal of the waste collected in a cup on the top of the skimmer. There are many types and styles of skimmers, at the end of the day the efficiency of a skimmer is judged by how much waste it can remove from a system and one of the main factors here is contact time between air and water. What happens is the waste particle sticks to the air bubble and rises to the top of the skimmer and is expelled into the cup and clean water exits from the skimmer. Although it sounds fairly simple the actual chemistry of this process is fairly complex. The new age skimmers all use needle wheel or venturie technology to provide air to the skimmer, these methods allow for a fine and high bubble flow rate.

Heating and chilling. (Temperature)

Don’t buy anything too cheap as temperature stability plays an important role. Fish don’t like more than 2° variants. This is always a problem in our climate as our summers are very hot and keeping the tanks at approximately 25°C is a problem (use computer fans to keep cool). Where as in winter buying a reliable heater can easily keep your tank at a constant 25 Celsius.

Biological filtration.

A biological filter is only needed in the advent of running a fish only system and should be avoided in a reef system where live rock should be your primary biological filter. The reason being the lighting used in a reef aquarium could cause algae problems as bio filter media produce more nitrate than a system can break down. In a fish only aquarium this is not as important as algae control is far easier. It is evident from this that you should not overstock a reef tank with fish. For a fish only system a compartment can be built into the sump which we put bio-balls into. The bio balls are a plastic ball to which the bacteria live on to help break down any excess waste. There are other mediums that one can use are course coral pieces, hair curlers and any other medium that bacteria will grow on. When making this decision as to which media to use, remember the product with the greatest surface area. The reason being the greater the surface area the more efficient due to larger amounts of bacteria.

Live Rock.

As mentioned before live rock plays a very real part in the success of a reef tank. The reason being it helps to create more of a living ecosystem (more stable environment). The live rock is a filter on its own and in turn helps to get rid of fish waste as well as any decaying matter. With in the live rock there are various types of worms as well as different types of bacteria that help keep the reef tank running more stable. If one uses live rock as their reef, you then do not have two worry about running a biological filter.

Coral Sand.

There are two options. Coral sand versus aragonite.

Coral sand being coral pieces crushed to make coral sand in various gauges. Advantages and disadvantages. Advantages of coral sand are being much cheaper. The disadvantage is being full of phosphates and does tend to become a detritus trap. Aragonite in my opinion only has pros. No phosphates and its sugar grain size so detritus is left on the top of the sand bed for easy removal. Ideal for a wrasse and small gobies. The only disadvantage is that it is slightly more expensive than coral sand.

Lighting.

A very debatable topic.

First question to ask yourself is, reef tank or fish tank. If reef tank one must consider we are trying to simulate the sun. This means in a simple form we can never give too much light, in the right spectrum for the right type of corals. For arguments sake one can keep most soft corals with far less light than all the hard corals that require very intense light. This decision must be made when taking into consideration the type of corals you are going to buy. Once again build a raport with your pet store.

What I recommend.

T5 is now the latest in technology as far as fluorescent lights go. We are achieving unbelievable results with these lights. They are driven with electronic ballasts so no starters are required. The other great thing is they last for approximately 3 years with virtually no loss of light intensity (Kelvin rating). We find these lights work in tanks well up to 60 cm deep.

Metal Halide.

Metal halides are generally used in deep tanks anything over 60 cm or in aquariums that require very intense light due to the corals that are being kept. These are generally used for hard corals and large tanks. What one can also do is run T5 in conjunction with metal halides in a large tank to create a more balanced light. Creating a sunrise and sunset for the corals. This is done by putting the T5 on a separate timer to the metal halides. Turn the T5 on first, two hours later metal halides for approximately 6 hours, and then T5′s for a further four hours.

If one sticks to what has been discussed above you should be off to a very good start in the hobby.

What is protein skimming?

What Is Protein Skimming, and How Does It Work?

Next to primary biological filtration, foam fractionating, better known as protein skimming, is the next most important aspect of any healthy marine system.

Although there are systems that claim to be “skimmer-free”, such as for most of us DOC’s (dissolved organic compounds), phenol oils, and other yellowing agents are a nuisance that only active protein skimming can eliminate. Before we jump into the subject matter any deeper, let’s discuss how these devices work.

 

To be as unscientific and as clear as possible, let’s simply say that the air bubbles inside the skimmer’s body strip the water of undesirable waste by-products. How the bubbles accomplish this is a neat trick that needs some explanation. Ever blow bubbles as a kid? Remember all the rainbow colours on them? Just as the soap clung to the giant bubbles you were creating so too, does all the junk and other organic gunk in your aquarium water. Those pretty rainbow colours were the light refracting off the soap film…you could actually see it! In our skimmers, the bubbles are microscopic and the results can only be “seen” after they burst and deposit their “films” into the collection cup! No pretty rainbow of colour here…nope. Only the vilest and nastiest looking sludge imaginable ride our skimmer’s bubbles.

It was discovered in waste treatment plants. By injecting high volumes of air bubbles into a column of waste water, the resulting effluent was purer and much cleaner than before. This is created by a surface tension. The interaction between the oxygen bubble and the surrounding water creates a kind of friction between the two. This friction in turn “charges” the molecules in the water.

Co-Current Skimming.

The charged gunk molecules “stick” to the bubbles, riding them up the column of water. Once the bubbles reach the surface air they burst, depositing their hitchhikers into a collection cup. This collection cup keeps the accumulated gunk from slipping back down into the water column inside the reaction chamber. Due to the very nature of saltwater, this process is possible. Freshwater protein skimming just isn’t feasible at our level as the technology to make it possible just isn’t practical at the hobby level.

Bubble size is a fundamental ingredient to a successful protein skimmer and various methods are used to create this “perfect” bubble. Originally, lime wood was and still is used to create the froth. The European hobbyists were amongst the first to recognize the importance of skimming their aquariums. Specifically, the Germans marketed some of the finest models in their day, and still do. Tunze and others brought protein skimming to our shores with the original design. This was called Co-Current skimming.

The basic, Co-Current skimmers used an open-ended tube or cylinder with the bubble source mounted at its base. As with uplift tubes utilized with under gravel filter plates, Co-Current skimmers used the volume of air bubbles rising in the column to bring the system water into contact within the chamber body. The water was “drawn” up into the cylinder from below the water’s surface and once the bubbles burst at the collection cup, the treated or stripped waters simply “fell” back down into the aquarium.

Above is a typical co-current skimmer, either hang-on or sump mounted.

Counter-Current Skimming.

This method works but isn’t terribly efficient due to contact time of the bubbles, which is referred to as Dwell time. The only method of making this type of skimming more efficient was by lengthening the reaction chamber, more water could be processed and more “gunk” removed. The problem was this became very clumsy and unsightly as you have this monster tube sticking out behind the aquarium.

Research and development created the next step in skimmer evolution: Counter-Current Skimming.

By injecting the water at the top of the reaction tube, the bubble source at the bottom of the reaction tube and having an isolated outlet fitting, also on the bottom of the chamber, so that the water has to pass against or “counter” to the rising wall of bubbles. This effectively doubles the dwell time making for a more productive unit. Many companies today market variations on this Counter-Current design.

Venturi Style Skimming.

In the pursuit of building a better protein skimmer the next step of protein skimming was introduced. This was by air - injection. These skimmers are called venturie style skimmer. Mazzei developed what came to be known as the Mazzei Valve. These models do not use any airstone or limewood diffuser to create the bubble column. They rely on a venturi valve to deliver both the water to be treated and the billions of microscopic bubbles. This is accomplished within the wasp-waste design.

Skimmer Venturi Valve

This is a typical threaded venturi valve. The high velocity water entering from the left is bottle-necked at the moulded wasp waist. The intake nipple is arranged at the top of the tube where the water movement creates air-draw. This is how the bubbles are formed inside the valve. The froth exiting the valve is introduced into the main skimmer body where it removes organics.

As high velocity water is pumped into the valve’s main body, the channel suddenly reaches a choke-point where baffling and an outlet or “nipple” allows room air to be drawn into the valve, injecting it into a swirling jet of water to be shot into the skimmer’s reaction chamber. By offsetting the fitting at the bottom of the cylinder, a vortex is created and the contact or dwell time is increased.

Up until just a few years ago this was the professional’s choice for serious foam fractionating, and in many circles it remains as such. These skimmers require an outlet pipe as the volume of water that they can process in an hour necessitates a “flow-through” design. Usually, the effluent is high on the skimmer’s main body, being directed back into a sump or display tank. You can modify a common powerhead to provide virtually the same results. These modifications make small volume powerheads available for smaller skimmers in micro reef systems.

Even today many Hang-On Style skimmers use the modified powerhead as a main pump. They mimic the venture valve concept by allowing air to be drawn into the impeller housing where the impeller chops the water-air mixture and shoots it into the skimmer.

Environmental tower skimmer.

ETS’s & Down-Draft Skimming.

Another, even simpler design became popular just a few years ago. The “ETS” (Environmental Tower Skimmer) was introduced to the hobby. Also known as Down-Draft skimmers, these models use a long tube connected to a sump with nothing more than an internal baffle plate and a drain valve. Inside the long vertical tube, bioballs are placed to diffuse the high velocity water that is injected at it’s top. As the water shoots down over the bioballs, it is smashed on the tower of bioballs. By the time the water reaches the sump at it’s base, the water is a white sea of foam. The baffle inside the sump creates dwell time and allows the protein-rich froth to rise up into a wide-mouthed tube with the collection cup mounted above it. These designs can process huge volumes of water and are favoured by big tank owners.

Cone skimmer.

The latest in the evolution of protein skimming. This particular skimmer has been introduced in the last 18 months.

The shape of it looks like an upsidedown ice cream cone. Air- Injection is through a powerhead fitted with Needle wheel. The reason for this shape skimmer is the air bubbles rise to the top of the cone with no neck where the bubbles were being trapped on the old design of skimmer, thus making this type of skimmer more efficient with more bubble contact time for the protein to be removed with.

At present the most efficient skimmer on the market.

Hope this article has shed some more light on the various options of skimming.

What Is Protein Skimming, and How Does It Work?

Next to primary biological filtration, foam fractionating, better known as protein skimming, is the next most important aspect of any healthy marine system.

Although there are systems that claim to be “skimmer-free”, such as for most of us DOC’s (dissolved organic compounds), phenol oils, and other yellowing agents are a nuisance that only active protein skimming can eliminate. Before we jump into the subject matter any deeper, let’s discuss how these devices work.
To be as unscientific and as clear as possible, let’s simply say that the air bubbles inside the skimmer’s body strip the water of undesirable waste by-products. How the bubbles accomplish this is a neat trick that needs some explanation. Ever blow bubbles as a kid? Remember all the rainbow colours on them? Just as the soap clung to the giant bubbles you were creating so too, does all the junk and other organic gunk in your aquarium water. Those pretty rainbow colours were the light refracting off the soap film…you could actually see it! In our skimmers, the bubbles are microscopic and the results can only be “seen” after they burst and deposit their “films” into the collection cup! No pretty rainbow of colour here…nope. Only the vilest and nastiest looking sludge imaginable ride our skimmer’s bubbles.
It was discovered in waste treatment plants. By injecting high volumes of air bubbles into a column of waste water, the resulting effluent was purer and much cleaner than before. This is created by a surface tension. The interaction between the oxygen bubble and the surrounding water creates a kind of friction between the two. This friction in turn “charges” the molecules in the water.

Co-Current Skimming

The charged gunk molecules “stick” to the bubbles, riding them up the column of water. Once the bubbles reach the surface air they burst, depositing their hitchhikers into a collection cup. This collection cup keeps the accumulated gunk from slipping back down into the water column inside the reaction chamber. Due to the very nature of saltwater, this process is possible. Freshwater protein skimming just isn’t feasible at our level as the technology to make it possible just isn’t practical at the hobby level.

Bubble size is a fundamental ingredient to a successful protein skimmer and various methods are used to create this “perfect” bubble. Originally, lime wood was and still is used to create the froth. The European hobbyists were amongst the first to recognize the importance of skimming their aquariums. Specifically, the Germans marketed some of the finest models in their day, and still do. Tunze and others brought protein skimming to our shores with the original design. This was called Co-Current skimming.
The basic, Co-Current skimmers used an open-ended tube or cylinder with the bubble source mounted at its base. As with uplift tubes utilized with under gravel filter plates, Co-Current skimmers used the volume of air bubbles rising in the column to bring the system water into contact within the chamber body. The water was “drawn” up into the cylinder from below the water’s surface and once the bubbles burst at the collection cup, the treated or stripped waters simply “fell” back down into the aquarium.
Above is a typical co-current skimmer, either hang-on or sump mounted.

Counter-Current Skimming

This method works but isn’t terribly efficient due to contact time of the bubbles, which is referred to as Dwell time. The only method of making this type of skimming more efficient was by lengthening the reaction chamber, more water could be processed and more “gunk” removed. The problem was this became very clumsy and unsightly as you have this monster tube sticking out behind the aquarium.
Research and development created the next step in skimmer evolution: Counter-Current Skimming.
By injecting the water at the top of the reaction tube, the bubble source at the bottom of the reaction tube and having an isolated outlet fitting, also on the bottom of the chamber, so that the water has to pass against or “counter” to the rising wall of bubbles. This effectively doubles the dwell time making for a more productive unit. Many companies today market variations on this Counter-Current design.

Venturi Style Skimming
In the pursuit of building a better protein skimmer the next step of protein skimming was introduced. This was by air - injection. These skimmers are called venturie style skimmer. Mazzei developed what came to be known as the Mazzei Valve. These models do not use any airstone or limewood diffuser to create the bubble column. They rely on a venturi valve to deliver both the water to be treated and the billions of microscopic bubbles. This is accomplished within the wasp-waste design.

Venturi Style Skimming

Skimmer Venturi Valve

This is a typical threaded venturi valve. The high velocity water entering from the left is bottle-necked at the moulded wasp waist. The intake nipple is arranged at the top of the tube where the water movement creates air-draw. This is how the bubbles are formed inside the valve. The froth exiting the valve is introduced into the main skimmer body where it removes organics.
As high velocity water is pumped into the valve’s main body, the channel suddenly reaches a choke-point where baffling and an outlet or “nipple” allows room air to be drawn into the valve, injecting it into a swirling jet of water to be shot into the skimmer’s reaction chamber. By offsetting the fitting at the bottom of the cylinder, a vortex is created and the contact or dwell time is increased.

Up until just a few years ago this was the professional’s choice for serious foam fractionating, and in many circles it remains as such. These skimmers require an outlet pipe as the volume of water that they can process in an hour necessitates a “flow-through” design. Usually, the effluent is high on the skimmer’s main body, being directed back into a sump or display tank. You can modify a common powerhead to provide virtually the same results. These modifications make small volume powerheads available for smaller skimmers in micro reef systems.
Even today many Hang-On Style skimmers use the modified powerhead as a main pump. They mimic the venture valve concept by allowing air to be drawn into the impeller housing where the impeller chops the water-air mixture and shoots it into the skimmer.

Environmental tower skimmer

Don Carner
ETS’s & Down-Draft Skimming
Another, even simpler design became popular just a few years ago. The “ETS” (Environmental Tower Skimmer) was introduced to the hobby. Also known as Down-Draft skimmers, these models use a long tube connected to a sump with nothing more than an internal baffle plate and a drain valve. Inside the long vertical tube, bioballs are placed to diffuse the high velocity water that is injected at it’s top. As the water shoots down over the bioballs, it is smashed on the tower of bioballs. By the time the water reaches the sump at it’s base, the water is a white sea of foam. The baffle inside the sump creates dwell time and allows the protein-rich froth to rise up into a wide-mouthed tube with the collection cup mounted above it. These designs can process huge volumes of water and are favoured by big tank owners.
Cone skimmer
The latest in the evolution of protein skimming. This particular skimmer has been introduced in the last 18 months.
The shape of it looks like an upsidedown ice cream cone. Air- Injection is through a powerhead fitted with Needle wheel. The reason for this shape skimmer is the air bubbles rise to the top of the cone with no neck where the bubbles were being trapped on the old design of skimmer, thus making this type of skimmer more efficient with more bubble contact time for the protein to be removed with.
At present the most efficient skimmer on the market.
Hope this article has shed some more light on the various options of skimming.

What Are Phosphates?

Phosphate or PO 4 is a compound of Phosphorus (P), one of the top 14 out of 70 trace elements found in natural sea water that are considered to be essential for saltwater aquarium and reef tank systems. However, it is also a primary nutrient source for many forms of algae, particularly green hair species, so when high concentrations are allowed to accumulate in an aquarium, it then opens the door for aggressive algae blooms to occur.

Where Do Phosphates Come From?
Phosphates are introduced into saltwater systems in various ways, such as:

• By using unfiltered tap water for making up sea salt mixes or as top-up water.
• There are many common aquarium products used, such as some sea salt mixes, cheap activated carbon, KH buffers, foods put into the tank, and many other sources.

It is advised to pre-test tap or any other fresh water source, or new products used in your aquarium for phosphates, as well as nitrates. Why add more of something that you don’t need in your tank to cause a problem?

How Do You Reduce High Phosphate Concentrations?
The optimal phosphate level, especially for reef tanks, is an immeasurable one, or zero, with 0.05 ppm-mg/l being acceptable, and an upper level of 0.1 ppm cited as well. Having a good, reliable phosphate test kit is important.

Here are solutions for reducing high phosphate concentrations in saltwater aquariums.

• Adding limewater or kalkwasser solution has been associated with lowering phosphate levels. One of the theories why calcium hydroxide might produce better results than calcium chloride has been that the high pH and high calcium in a saturated calcium hydroxide solution cause precipitation of phosphate from the freshwater, eliminating this algae fertilizer from the solution.” there was a study done using calcium hydroxide to see what the rate of reduction of phosphates were. It is interesting that, when allowing the mix to sit, after two days there was only a 50% drop in phosphates, but after five days there was a 90% drop. The conclusion is that the drop in phosphates, when using calcium hydroxide, is slow and if the mix is used right away, any phosphates remaining in the mix will be pumped into your tank.

• Regular maintenance care routines with water changes are always recommended for a healthy aquarium. This helps to control phosphates, nitrates and many other unwanted chemicals elements and compounds in saltwater systems that contribute to water quality problems.
There are commercially available phosphate removing products, such as Rowa Phos, Aqua Medic Antiphos which are two of the leading products available in this country. You also find that it removes silicate from the water as well

• These particular phosphate removing products must be replaced every three months to keep the phosphates down at an accepted level.
One other way to remove phosphate naturally is to use a algae scrubbing filter (this is an area in your sump where you grow seaweed) which naturally feeds on the phosphate in the water. You then remove the excess alga that grows in the filter which has now fed on the phosphate with an end result of lowering phosphate levels.

Diagnosing phosphate in your tank.
The first symptom is normally filamentous algae, followed by green or red slime algae. You then get bleaching of corals as well as the corals and anemone shrinking.

Wave Makers

Wave Makers

Central to the idea of creating a more natural environment in the aquarium is the use of two or three powerheads to circulate the water completely in the tank. The advantages are:

a. Elimination of DEAD ZONES in the tank.
b. Suspension and removal of pollution via the overflow system.
c. Creation of GLITTER LINES on the surfaces and sand.
d. Maintains adequate oxygen levels.
e. Keeps the fish / corals active and promotes the periodic SKIN REMOVAL of soft corals.

The OCEAN RUNNER, SICCE, MAXI JET powerhead pumps come in various sizes and can be connected to the AQUA MEDIC WAVE machine, which automatically varies the pumps in a random manner. The wave machine has SOFT START electronics, which protect the pumps from burn out.

The RE-CIRCULATION pump (sump) is also connected to the WAVE MACHINE.
There is also a FEED BUTTON which when activated ALL water movement is halted so that minimal food is wasted when feeding the fish.
A LIGHT SENSOR attachment is also available which when attached the sensor sensors night turns off two of the powerheads which will insurers the tank is not over circulated at night when compared to the daytime cycles.

AQUA MEDIC WAVE - 3 x 1. Facility for three powerheads and one return pump.
There are various other methods of creating a wave action, such as.
A powerhead that has a wave action movement on it. By using this method you can create a more realistic simulation of the ocean by putting powerheads on either end of the tank and creating a tidal action. For example you would be able to run to powerheads on the left-hand side for six hours, then turn those off and run the other two on the other end for six hours creating an incoming and outgoing tide.
Either way when one has used a method described above only then does one realise the importance of using such a piece of equipment.

Water temperature

As this is our first articles and we are in mid-summer I felt it was appropriate to start off with the problems of water temperature.
First of all the correct temperature for a marine tank is between 24 and 26°C. The reason for this is all coral reefs are at around these temperatures.

One of our global problems the moment is global warming which is having a profound effect on our coral reefs as the temperatures are starting to rise. What actually happens is when the water gets to around 28°C the algae sell that grows in the Coral which gives it its colour starts to die. In our fish tanks you notice they start to look white or if they are coloured their colours start to fade. Once they have lost their algae cells then start to shrink and eventually die fortunately if temperature is addressed these corals can regenerate their algae cells very quickly and get back to looking normal within a very short space of time. There are other factors involved but as we are discussing the problems of temperature I will not elaborate on other possibilities.
As discussed above these are all problems related to corals. There are other very important factors such as oxygen levels being depleted which also becomes a major problem as your livestock starts competing against the bacteria for oxygen. The bacteria we’re talking about here is the bacteria that supports the whole system. Obviously bacteria then starts to die which in turn causes ammonia, nitrite and then nitrate ending up with a water problem. One of the other problems is in the event of a power failure longer than two hours when water temperature is more than 28°C you can end up losing your whole tank as the tank becomes depleted oxygen very quickly.

Preventing problems.
If one is fortunate enough to have a chiller on their tank the most important thing is to get it serviced every six months, ideally in winter.
One of the other solutions is to put in power heads with good circulation. This helps to increase the oxygen level, which reduces stress on the fish. The other thing that one can do is to put a fan blowing across the surface of the water; this generally reduces the water temperature by 2°. You will get more evaporation by using the fan but this is an easy enough solution to solve by just being inconvenienced by adding more top up water.

Things not to do.
Please do not add blocks of ice or even bottles with frozen water into the tank to bring the temperature down, as this is only a short-term solution. What happens is the temperature drops for only a few hours, which then creates temperature fluctuation which induces disease into the tank for your fish?

Visit our new store

We are excited to announce our new super store in open. Why not pop in and discuss your questions or concerns about your tank with our experts.

Find at 87 Umhlanga Rocks Drive, Shop 5, Arcadia (Next to Kentucky)

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UV Sterilizer

UV Sterilizers can be beneficial to both Reef and Fish Only tanks.

What is the sterilizer?

It is a container, usually in a near tube shape, in which an ultraviolet (UV) fluorescent lamp is contained. The lamp emits light at around 254 nm. The lamp is in a container of its own to shield it from the water, and then there is an outer container. The lamp is constructed of quartz glass to prevent the UV being absorbed as it would be if ordinary glass were used. The space between the containers is very small allowing full penetration of UV light. The water is passed between the outer and inner containers by a pump or power head. It is very important that you have a UV sterilizer that is rated for your aquarium size.

What is the sterilizer?

It is a container, usually in a near tube shape, in which an ultraviolet (UV) fluorescent lamp is contained. The lamp emits light at around 254 nm. The lamp is in a container of its own to shield it from the water, and then there is an outer container. The lamp is constructed of quartz glass to prevent the UV being absorbed as it would be if ordinary glass were used. The space between the containers is very small allowing full penetration of UV light. The water is passed between the outer and inner containers by a pump or power head. It is very important that you have a UV sterilizer that is rated for your aquarium size.


What does a UV sterilizer in a reef tank or a Fish only tank do?

The major job of the unit as far as aquarists are concerned is the destruction of minute free swimming parasites and other disease causing organisms. The organism must be in the UV area for a sufficient time.) The threat of disease is reduced, but not entirely removed. Sterilizers are a good tool in order to keep away certain diseases, but the at home aquarist must still be on the lookout for disease. It is also important to research the disease that is expected, Ich is one disease that a UV sterilizer will combat . be necessary. A UV sterilizer is very effective in helping to combat brookynella, a fairly common disease known as clown fish disease. A further very important point is that the UV lamp has a limited life; bulbs need to be replaced every 12 to 18 months. The other important thing to remember is to use the right size delivery pump to the UV steriliser.

Tridacnid Clams

Keeping Maxima, Crocea, Squamosa and Derasa Clams in Reef Aquariums
Aside from being some of the most intriguing of all reef aquarium species, tridacnid clams actually provide a range of benefits well beyond their beauty and novelty.

Clams are filter feeders, meaning that they help marine aquariums maintain high water quality by absorbing nitrates, ammonia and other organics that are harmful to sensitive reef tank inhabitants even in very low concentrations. Other than that, few if any reef aquarium species have the wide range of vibrant colours that the giant clam species offer.
Keeping giant clams healthy and growing in a reef aquarium requires a similar system of care to that of SPS corals. Bright lighting such as that provided by metal halide is ideal to maintain their vibrant colours, in that most clams generate energy by photosynthesis as well as by filter feeding. Although they also do well under T5 lighting. Moderate to high water flow will ensure that clams receive an ample supply of water to continually feed on. High levels of calcium provided by calcium reactors will help clams to develop thick and healthy shells and to grow rapidly.
There are several species of giant clams available to reef aquarium hobbyists today, each offering colour patterns unique to their species. Today, Maxima clams are among the most popular for their electric colouration and interesting patterns. Some Maxima clams are subcategorised by the characteristics of their markings and are sometimes referred to as Ultra Maxima clams (for their extremely electric blue and purple colors) and the very popular Teardrop Maxima clams (named for the teardrop-shaped markings on their mantles). The Crocea clam species are similar in appearance to Maxima’s, and come in a wide range of colours including those with stripes of greens and teals. Squamosa clams are among the easiest to keep of all of the giant clam species available for reef aquariums. Despite having lower light requirements (often placing these clams directly on the sandbed of the reef tank is the preferred placement), Squamosa clams do come in exciting colour varieties including interesting patterns of spots ranging from brown to blue. Derasa clams continue to grow in popularity for both their ease of care and fast growth. A popular colouration of Derasa clams is known as the “Blue Rim Derasa”, in which only the very edge of the clam’s mantle is a shockingly bright blue color.
Clams are relatively slow growing reef aquarium inhabitants, a trait that is actually considered a positive feature by most advanced reef tank hobbyists. Clams do not encroach on other reef tank species in the way that often corals do, and offer peace of mind as well as beauty for their keepers.